Piazza dell'Anfiteatro

The story of this square begins in the second century, when Roman engineers constructed a massive amphitheatre to entertain the citizens of Lucca. As the Roman Empire faded, the structure fell into disuse and began a slow decline. By the Middle Ages, the arena was no longer a place of spectacle but a defensive fortress and later a cluster of dwellings and warehouses. Locals called it the Parlascio, a term derived from a misunderstanding of the Latin word for amphitheatre, which morphed into a belief that this was where public assemblies were held. For centuries, the site was hidden beneath layers of later construction, serving as a prison, a salt depot, and a gunpowder store. The modern transformation began in the nineteenth century, thanks to the vision of local architect Lorenzo Nottolini. He recognised the immense potential of the space and spearheaded an ambitious urban renewal project. Workers cleared the cramped dwellings that had invaded the arena, allowing the original elliptical profile to re emerge from the medieval clutter. This intervention turned a forgotten series of ruins into one of the most elegant public spaces in Italy. Nottolini successfully cleared the site and curated the architecture to create a flowing, open space that respected the ancient geometry while welcoming the modern community. Today, the floor of the square sits roughly three metres above the original Roman arena, hiding the ancient foundations beneath the cobblestones. While it once housed a lively produce market, those commercial activities moved away in the twentieth century, leaving the space open for cafes, restaurants, and residents. Visitors can still spot the four arched gateways that provide entry to the square, with one of them matching the orientation of a Roman entrance. A small, subtle cross carved into a tile at the centre marks the intersection of these ancient pathways, a quiet detail that invites curious travellers to pause and reflect on the deep layers of history beneath their feet.