Church of saint michael in the forum in Lucca

Church of Saint Michael in the Forum

Chiesa di San Michele in Foro
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Standing proudly in the heart of the ancient Roman forum of Lucca, this architectural masterpiece captivates visitors with its stunning white marble facade and intricate carvings. You will be drawn to the soaring statue of Archangel Michael perched atop the roof, wings shimmering, as if ready to take flight over the city. Inside, discover a treasure trove of art, including a rare terracotta work by Luca della Robbia and frescoes that whisper stories of the past. It is more than just a place of worship; it serves as a historic anchor for the city, inviting you to pause, admire the craftsmanship, and soak in the atmosphere of medieval Tuscany. Whether you are an art lover or simply wandering through the charming streets, this site offers a peaceful yet profound encounter with history.

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History of Church of Saint Michael in the Forum

The history of San Michele in Foro is woven into the very fabric of Lucca itself. Originally established in the eighth century upon the site of the ancient Roman forum, the church rose to prominence as a place of spiritual refuge for the Lombards who revered Saint Michael. By the eleventh century, the site underwent a grand transformation under the direction of Pope Alexander II, laying the foundations for the magnificent Romanesque structure that greets visitors today. Over the following centuries, master builders and artists poured their creative spirit into the facade, adding layers of intricate detail, loggias, and symbolic carvings that define the building's identity. The church once stood as a symbol of power, its bell tower famously silenced by the Pisan captain Giovanni dell'Agnello in the fourteenth century because its pealing could be heard all the way to Pisa. This act was not just an attempt to quiet the bells, but a symbolic move to assert dominance over Lucca. Despite such trials, the church persisted, evolving through the Renaissance and beyond. It remains a testament to the endurance of the community, standing firm as it transitions from the medieval era into the modern day. Today, it remains a vital landmark, continuing to watch over the lively square that bears its name, preserving centuries of artistic and spiritual devotion within its walls. The church is more than just a historical relic; it is a living part of the city, inviting travellers to connect with the deep layers of history that define this beautiful Tuscan destination.

Events spanning 1054 years

YEAR 795

A Sacred Foundation

The church was first officially documented as an established site of worship in the center of the old Roman forum, dedicated to Saint Michael by the Lombards.

YEAR 1070

A Grand Reconstruction

Pope Alexander II initiated a major rebuilding of the church, laying the foundations for the impressive Romanesque structure that remains a landmark today.

YEAR 1364

The Muting of the Bells

Giovanni dell'Agnello, the captain of Pisa, ordered the upper part of the bell tower to be dismantled because its ringing could be heard as far away as Pisa, which he perceived as a challenge to his own authority.

YEAR 1849

Victorian Era Restoration

Architect Giuseppe Pardini began an extensive restoration of the facade, replacing several elements and introducing carvings that depict prominent figures from the nineteenth century.

Fun Facts

  • A faded fresco on the interior counterfacade remains as the only surviving evidence of the painted decoration that once adorned the entire church walls.
  • During the Middle Ages, visitors could only access the church by crossing a wooden bridge that spanned a canal running through the middle of the piazza.
  • It houses a beautiful glazed terracotta work by the renowned master Luca della Robbia, representing his sole contribution to the art scene of Lucca.
  • Local legend claims that a hidden emerald is set into the statue of the Archangel Michael atop the facade, occasionally catching the light to reveal a green sparkle.
  • Some of the columns on the facade display carved faces representing historic figures, including a dedicated depiction of Ettruda, a powerful abbess from the Lombard era.
  • The church stands directly upon the location of the ancient Roman forum, which served as the primary hub of public life in the city during antiquity.
  • The facade showcases a stunning series of loggias that exemplify the distinct Pisan Romanesque style, which many historians attribute to the influence of the famous architect Diotisalvi.
  • The interior preserves the mortal remains of Saint Davino, an Armenian pilgrim who passed away in Lucca during the eleventh century.
  • The sculptor Matteo Civitali crafted a Madonna and Child for the exterior corner in the late fifteenth century, which has weathered the elements for over five hundred years.
  • The site acts as a major waypoint on the Saint Michael Line, a mythical ley line that connects sacred sites dedicated to the Archangel across Europe.

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